Daniel J. Hinkley

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Hanoi to Yangoon

October 17, 2013 By Daniel J. Hinkley

The ancient and ornate Shwegon Temple, Yangoon.
The ancient and ornate Shwegon Temple, Yangoon.

Upon our 4:45am arrival on the night train from Lao Cai to Hanoi on Wednesday, 10/16/13,  we headed immediately for our prearranged day rooms at the Asia Star in the  old quarter of the city. We collectively agreed upon a couple hours of rest before breakfast and final preparation of our seed collections for shipment to and inspection by the USDA. Prior to dozing off, I glanced at my email and read a missive from the US Embassy in Myanmar. A series of bombs had exploded across the country, seriously wounding an American tourist at a luxury hotel in the capital. Before taking a much needed early morning nap, I forwarded the message to Scott who would be flying with me that afternoon to Yangon where we would meet up with good friend Shayne Chandler who had secured last minute funding and permission to join us. (Shayne and I have botanized together in Costa Rica, Vietnam as well as many hikes in our local Olympic Mt range in WA State). [Read more…]

Filed Under: Essays, Expeditions Tagged With: Vietnam & Myanmar 2013

Climb to Fan Xi Phan

October 12, 2013 By Daniel J. Hinkley

DSC00045
The lower, untrammeled slopes of the mountain.

While en route to SaPa from Ha Giang, the four of us had hastily changed our game plan to finish our time together in Vietnam. Perhaps it was the diversity of what had been seen at higher elevations of the NE combined in equal parts of simply wanting to witness another part of the country; in any event, Scott, Ozzie and Andrew decided to drive with Uoc to examine possible future areas of examination, while it was decided I would hike up the north side of Fan Xi Phan over two days, on a route I had never done previously. I was more than happy to put my boots on again and hit the trail. And while I had seen the NW of the country in 2006 during an extended trip here, I had never seen this side of Vietnam’s highest mountain during my many visits here. [Read more…]

Filed Under: Essays, Expeditions Tagged With: Vietnam & Myanmar 2013

Men Seeking Amenotaxus

October 10, 2013 By Daniel J. Hinkley

Men-Seeking-1-Dan-Hinkley
The log flume hiked by Scott in 2008, revisited more safely during this trek.

In 2010, Scott and Ozzie had parted my company in SaPa to travel to Ha Giang Province (where we are now) and had reached the edge of an undisturbed forest much too late in the day to adequately explore the environs before having to turn back due to lack of light. Although yesterday, 10/9/13, had satisfied many of our questions as to what might have been found had time allowed, it was decided to return to the same mountain on the Chinese/Vietnam frontier, less than 10 miles from the Yunnan border, to the precise location they had visited. A considerable drive from Ban Quan, it was mid-morning and uncomfortably warm by the time we reached the trailhead. As are much of the ‘trails’ in the mountains here, ours was not meant for climbing up as much as for sliding logs down to the valley below. Scott, apprehensive of again reaching the forests with insufficient time to explore, shot out of the gates at a breakneck pace and I felt compelled to keep up with the front runner. It was encouraging to feel the confidence return to my knees after our trek on Five Fingers, which will be welcomed during our trek in northern Myanmar next week. [Read more…]

Filed Under: Essays, Expeditions Tagged With: Vietnam & Myanmar 2013

Ban Quan to Bat Dai San

October 9, 2013 By Daniel J. Hinkley

The village of Ban Quan, Vietnam, and its curious karst formations.
The village of Ban Quan, Vietnam, and its curious karst formations.

A mid morning departure from SaPa on 10/8/13 allowed for our boots and associated gear to be dried at a local laundry, but would put us to our destination much later than we had hoped. The 8 hour drive to the northeast, through idyllic minority villages in a celebratory mood at the height of the rice harvest, would take us to the frontier town of Ban Quan. It is a modest and remote town built amidst a fanciful and highly weathered geology of karst limestone. Arising even amongst the town itself are symmetrical cones several hundred feet high, suggesting more ancient ruins of a former civilization than a natural geological process. [Read more…]

Filed Under: Essays, Expeditions Tagged With: Vietnam & Myanmar 2013

Trek Across Five Fingers

October 8, 2013 By Daniel J. Hinkley

All is well that ends well; clear skies and nearing the trailhead; the pass we crossed is dead center in the distance.
All is well that ends well; clear skies and nearing the trailhead; the pass we crossed is dead center in the distance.

In no way do I consider myself Herculean, although I do fancy myself in reasonable physical condition; I work out religiously five days a week. Yet tonight, 10/8/13, I am drained of energy, hobbled by lameness of the limbs and punctured by a heady assortment of thorns, insects and leaches.

On Saturday, Oct 5th, after a frenzy of organizing the gear we felt necessary for two nights on the mountain, we left for the trail head -about an hours drive from our hill station of Sa Pa, passing the devastated village of Ban Khoang enroute; a landslide there three weeks prior during heavy rains had sadly swept much of the settlement away while taking the lives of 12. Near the trailhead, we stopped to pick up our prearranged local guide who waited for us along the road. Our own guide, Uoc le Huu, had never before taken this route that was meant to take two long days. [Read more…]

Filed Under: Essays, Expeditions Tagged With: Vietnam & Myanmar 2013

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Daniel J. Hinkley

Teacher, writer, lecturer, consultant, nurseryman, naturalist, gardener.
Above all, he is committed to solid and sustainable horticultural practices, above average garden plants, landscapes of distinction and raising the collective awareness of the diversity of plant life on Earth as well as the magic and mysteries of our natural world. Learn more…

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